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Monday, May 5, 2003

Coachella 2003: The Drive, The Arrival, The Beer

Editor's note: It's a brave soul who, in 2003, is willing to venture into the no-man's-land of a "rock festival." Even a well-mannered rock fest such as the annual Coachella event. Such a soul is Neumu contributing editor Jesse Zeifman, who risked it all for the sake of journalism (and a good time). This week we'll be running his reports from the front lines. Enjoy.

Neumu's Jesse Zeifman reports: Friday, April 25 — Indio, Calif., (population 51,000 and change) is the unlikeliest place one would expect to find what is quickly becoming the Mecca of American music festivals: Coachella. About 125 miles southeast of Los Angeles, this desert town has, for the fourth year running, just seen its population almost double as people from all over the world descended upon the Empire Polo Fields for two wall-to-wall days of music made by more than 70 bands and solo artists.

The pilgrimage south from San Francisco went from brisk to epic once we swooped down the Grapevine and into the L.A. basin. The heat and the traffic forced us to earn the next few hours and made our exit onto Indio Boulevard, much later, that much sweeter.

Anticipation among my traveling companions had been high for the days leading up to the journey. Some had attended the festival before, most had not. From the veterans to the neophytes, no one had been sleeping much. The insomnia and excitement were often equated — and never more so than the Friday we arrived — to the way sleepless childhood nights before Christmas used to feel.

We pulled into town at dusk on Friday, April 25. Looking south toward the Santa Rosa Mountains, we could see, in about a dozen white lights shooting straight into the sky, that final tweaks to the concert site were well underway.

With a night to kill in Indio, the "City of Festivals," there were really only two things to do; have an enormous Mexican meal at the local spot, Piñata's, and buy as much liquor and beer from the cavernous Food-4-Less as our cars would hold. Of particular popularity among the throngs of other Coachella shoppers lining the aisles were the very large square cases of 30 Pabst Blue Ribbons for about 16 bucks. Indeed, 50-cent cans of beer were, on a weekend when vendors sold small cups of suds for six bucks a pop, something to behold. We transported our supplies to the budget country club we, and many other concert-goers, had rented condos from, and waited for the rest of the team to convene.

Luckily, Chuco the Selector brought his PA system and an MP3 player with about 4,000 songs, so we had everything from "Yoshimi..." to "Summer of '69" to "The Rainbow Connection" to serve as soundtrack.

Saturday, April 26 — After a night in which great contributions were made to Indio's recycling effort, Saturday morning arrived with clear skies and a blazing desert sun. We began our trek, on foot, to the concert grounds and, after traversing several holes of the Indian Palms golf course (eliciting frowns from the gray-hairs teeing off) found the main road, already lined with cars speeding toward the gate.

Upon arrival, we parted ways as I checked in as press and was directed, with my gear, through a separate entrance. After about two minutes waiting to pass through security, I found myself on the sprawling and, at that point, sparsely populated grounds.

Unfortunately, for my friends and others in a line that hadn't looked so bad from afar, their joy was about to turn to rage as the first and, seemingly, only major mishap by festival organizers unfolded in the sweltering heat.

The security hired to search those entering the grounds was, initially, a disaster. The attendees were lined up alongside the outer fence and there they stayed, without shade, for hours, as those up ahead had things as small as wallets and key chains checked for drugs, weapons and whatever else. Everyone understood that security was necessary and vital at an event like Coachella. That wasn't the dispute. According to many otherwise level-headed people who were steaming upon entry, the overzealous actions taking place at the gate came close to provoking a riot among concert-goers who, throughout the weekend, proved to be anything but rowdy or belligerent.

It's a credit to Goldenvoice, that by day two, the problems had been fixed. (On Sunday, security was thorough and brisk, the line moved quickly, and no music was missed.)

Coming Tuesday, May 6: N*E*R*D* Blows It

The InsiderOne Daily Report appears on occasion.




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